The Wooden Cart Construction for a great way to store all the necessities or food for the barbecues and barbecue, as well as an additional space to place our freshly cooked food from the grill!
Construction of a Wooden Cart to accompany the Grill!
I built this barbecue accessory cart to store charcoal, cooking utensils, and anything else you need when you want to use it anytime during the summer.
The cedar and redwood construction of this car means it will withstand the elements and the finished project will look great. Since all wood is not created equal, be sure to use measurements as a guide. Cedar planks lined up side by side should (in theory) equal 27 1/2″ wide for the back, but in this case, it was 27 3/8″. We had to modify the cuts for the frame, shelf, bottom and top to reflect that.
To start, I wore out a bunch of redwood boards fro 2×3 en 2×2. These pieces will form the frame of the cart. I marked and drilled all my pocket holes 1 1/2 «. I also planned all my cedar boards to be nice and smooth. Coarse grit sandpaper (80 grit) will smooth out the rough side.
Square all the corners and attach them with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket screws. Make sure the pocket holes are facing down so they will be hidden once the cart is assembled.
When the front and rear frame pieces are assembled, attach the 2x2 side stretchers with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket screws.
The finished frame is ready to add the sides and shelves.
To build the back, sides, and shelves, attach the cedar boards with 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket screws.
Start with the bottom of the cart. Fit the bottom inside the frame, making it flush with the top side of the 2x2. Fasten everything with 1 1/4″ pocket screws.
To make the X on the sides, I pinned a 2x2 in place and marked the cuts with a pencil. In this case, cut the angles at 16 degrees. Once the longest piece of the X was in place, follow the same steps to determine where to cut the remaining pieces to make the center. Then set aside for later.
The back is a solid panel, so a piece of leftover redwood (a 1x2) is used to fill the space between the top shelf and the back panel. Attach with 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket screws in the legs and then from the bottom, I attached the 1x2 to the shelf with the 3/4″ pocket holes provided. had previously drilled into the shelf.
Attach the back panel and sides of the cart with 1 1/4″ pocket screws. Because the top shelf doesn't leave much room to work with, go back to drive the pocket screws into the frame.
Drilling pocket holes in angled pieces is always a challenge, but an easy solution. For 16 degree angled ends, fit with the angled end flat against the bottom plate. Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes in those ends with the drill bit to a 1 1/2″ depth. For the 56 1/2 degree ends, fit the 2x2s vertically, so only the tip of the angle touches the bottom plate. Set the drill bit 3/4″ deep and drill a pocket hole in the longer side of the 2x2 so the drill bit doesn't reach over the end.
I secured the pieces in place and attached with pocket screws 2 1/2″.
Buy some 2″ wheels and place them in each corner of the bottom of the cart. Because the machine plate had a larger footprint than the corners, I tilted it to ensure each hole lined up with the wood for a screw to drive through. Secure with 1 1/4″ wood screws.
For the top, tear the remaining cedar into 1x3 pieces (2 1/2″ wide) to build the table frame. Again, it's important to make sure you measure your own project and use my measurements as a guide. The 1x6 center boards might be a little narrower than 5 1/2 inches, which will affect the length of the shorter frame pieces at each end. Assemble the table top with 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket screws.
To attach the table top to the cart base, drill 1/8″ pilot holes around the entire top. Center the table on the base and secure in place. Use offset adapter to drive 2″ screws through the bottom of the top pieces and into the top of the table. It gets a little tricky on the sides, where the X is, but it all worked out in the end.
Once the entire car was sanded, I applied a few coats of “Spar Urethane” outdoors to seal the wood. I loved the way the wood grain appeared once the sealer was applied. Once the sealant was dry, I also installed hooks on the side to hold kitchen utensils.
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